1. Jump to Latest Follow ... and also tried driving at a low speed and flooring it in 5th... no slipping. Zigzagsky, Mar 10, 2014 #1. Just got in my 265 ready to drive this morning and the biting point is very close to the floor, couldn't get it into gear on the first two attempts. The biting point on the clutch is low but the gears still select without problems. After soo manny hours and parts put in my car to solve the low biting point of the clutch, i have bought an new set from Sachs and install yesterday. If I am creeping forward in traffic for longer than five minutes, the bite starts to get progressively lower to the floor, to the point that with the pedal on the ~ Low clutch biting point Normally it means the clutch is worn and will need replacement in the near future. As the clutch fails you will notice this getting higher and higher. Some vehicles have a low clutch biting point, while others have a high clutch biting point. Basically just make sure your clutch isn't slipping , … How to Find The Clutch Biting Point. The biting point is defined as the point at which the clutch plates first come into contact with one another. The clutch pedal can be adjusted from under the dash at the top part of the pedal assembly . ... As long as you aren't consistently putting pressure on the clutch pedal, the fluid should not be slipping past the master cylinder. We go over how clutch pedal adjustment affects the clutch hydraulic system. Absolutely no slippage on the clutch, and the clutch pedal itself still moves up and down with the same feel as normal. Twist push rod in shown direction with long nose pliers to raise biting point from the floor. My van clutch has a low biting point, however saying that it does run well. Loosen 12mm locking nut then release clutch. To find your vehicle’s biting point, follow the steps below. Clutch Biting Point- Clutch Pedal Low Down - posted in Problems, Questions and Technical: Hi I recently had a gear crunching problem when selecting 1st or reverse gear on my 3-synch gear box. There seems to be play at the pedal itself and the biting point is low. It should at least provide you a means you wouldn't have … It changes gears fine and without crunching and it doesn't slip or anything. Has anyone any idea what might be causing the problem with the low biting point? Is there any way I could raise the biting point by renewing the hydraulic system or something like that? On one occasion it was very hard to change gears. Hi all, I have a Defender 91 200tdi and recently the clutch pedal has started to feel soft and the biting point has dropped. I still do not understand the notions "low biting point" and "high biting point". 3. Hello, I have a Freelander 1 td4 from 2001 and i have a problem with my clutch pedal and biting point. I have had a look at the master and slave and there are no obvious signs of leakage and I don't seem to be losing any fluid. The reason at that time was because the clutch pedal bite point had dropped down to the last / bottom 10% or so of pedal travel. Low Biting Point On Clutch? A high biting point on the clutch means that it is necessary to press the lever for a longer distance until the clutch is effectively engaged. This is correct. I have problems driving it myself, I have to lift my foot up and over the pedal, plus the biting point is right at the top, so you have resistant for the full distance to the floor. And the clutch pedal should sit about an inch higher than the brake pedal, and if its still on the floor then its clutch time. I just feel the biting point on the pedal is a bit low? Its only when the clutch pedal is right down to the … Ohhh okay . ... pedal itself has an initial 2-3cm of movement which I believe is normal before you start feeling any pressure in the pedal. Any tips or ideas guys would be appreciated. The clutch pedal biting point is fairly close to the floor so I am thinking that it probably needs adjusting but I can't quite see how this can be done. 2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2 240K I had my clutch master cylinder replaced 8 months ago. Very happy with it, seems much more sensible in layout and size than other MPVs I tried.In the first few days driving the car I felt that the clutch bite point was a little (very!) My previous mx5 mk2 had, for me, perfect clutch operation, the biting point was about 40% from the top of the pedal travel. In this case, the pedal needs to be pushed lower to actuate the clutch. If a clutch is slipping, it will do it regardless of release point. I’ve had it about a year and have been having problems for about 6 months. While holding the clutch pedal, select first gear. 2. Clutch control and the biting point. How a clutch works: Without getting too bogged down in the mechanics, the clutch is made up of 2 metal plates in the engine. I tried bleeding the system (2 man method), however every time the pedal was pushed to the floor it would stick and have to be pulled up and then pumped (5-6 pumps)repeatedly until it went 'hard', otherwise it would just drop back to the floor, this happened for every iteration. before i could lift the clutch pedal 3 to 4 inches upto the biting point, however now that ive had my clutch changed this has fallen to about 2 to 3. Ask Question Asked 9 months ago. The mechanic bled the clutch several times and its still no better. I tried my father-in-laws 2.0 HDi Picasso and that confirms it as his pedal bites a bit higher up. The car drives perfectly apart from that - once warmed up (literally after 1 min) the clutch point moves up, but still seems very low. Others claim that this is called the "high biting point". I bled the clutch, and replaced all wearable clutch parts (pre-verto clutch) to include clevis pins, clutch arm, plunger, release bearing. If the pedal has come up too high, it may be that part of the clutch pedal mech is missing, there is a plastic Spring & plunger mech that controls this, and it may have been removed when the cable was done. Before the new clutch it was almost the opposite, you had to almost let the pedal return to the top before it would bite, but it … The biting point is now ridiculously low, you only have to move pedal up 1/2 inch maximum and it will stall if not given enough revs. What does a high biting point on the clutch mean? Nodge68 Well-Known … Hi - this is my first post so here goes -Ive just bought a nice red 55 plate Avensis Verso D-4D. Page 1 of 2 - Clutch biting point issue? But if I pump a few times on the pedal, the biting point rises. please get back to me with the reply button, and not the poor or bad service, this way i can get back to you or suggest another expert if needed. hello, just had my clutch changed today and my biting point is different from what im used to. Clutch pedal adjustment should be checked after a new clutch has been installed. Clutch pedal biting point - posted in Problems, Questions and Technical: Hi My previous post was about bleeding the clutch on my pre-verto mini. This will lift or drop the pedal away or to the floor . I'm guessing the clutch is hydaulic and not adjustable. If you find you’re having to let it out almost all the way, then you could well be looking at having to acclimatise your foot to a new clutch. After the repair, it was the exact opposite - at the very very top way too high in the first / top 10% of pedal travel. - posted in Technical Section For MK1 & MK2: Hi All I've noticed the clutch biting point on our 2002 HDi 2.0 is quite low. 3. There hasn't really been any gradual noticeable change. Some say that a "low biting point" is when you step on the clutch pedal all the way down and the clutch bites as soon as you start releasing the pressure on the pedal. Hi My Mums Toyota Aygo clutch seem extremely high to me maybe 3 inches higher than the brake pedal, she's only small 5ft but its a very small car. Mine was new last year and biting point is right a top so only have to press sedal 1/4 way down to change gears Soft clutch biting point. Repeat 1 + 2 until new fluid runs through and no air bubbles are evident in the bleed pipe. Thanks John I also bled the system. I do think now that removing the damper, which i did, is simply an delay to the imminent death of the clutch. Take the car to a flat, level surface such as a parking lot such that the car does not roll away when in neutral with brakes disengaged. Bascially, i am getting clutch drag, and it crunches in 1st and reverse. My new one only has about an inch of travel left after it bites, the clutch is not riding and it works fine. Thanks for any advice. Low clutch biting point. I am coming up to a quite period and thought it would be a good opportunity to get it sorted. 2. low. push rod. The clutch operates fine and is now nice and smooth just far too low a bite point. Biting point was so high my heel couldn’t be on the floor when releasing the clutch. You should intuitively know where the biting point is for your clutch, especially after a couple of years behind the wheel. The bit point for the clutch seems to be right at the top of the pressure area. The result is stunning. The clutch is about 2yrs old heavy duty ( last time it went it was the bearing/ pivot ball I think). Additionally, each car, even among the same make/model/year/trim can have varying release points depending on a number of factors between the clutch pedal, clutch hydraulic cylinders, and clutch itself. Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair: I have a 62 plate 1.2 Ford KA Zetec. The cable has a large effect on this, only the genuine dealer ones work properly, but they cost @ £100 + vat, this will allow you to get the correct biting point. After a few pumps on the pedal the biting point has lifted a little and will go into gear but I'm reluctant to drive it. This point can differ between vehicles. Something similar happens in cars with a hydraulic system and a manual gearbox. It doesn't matter how high or low your biting point is, as long as your clutch is not slipping when you change gear it shouldn't be a problem, if your clutch pedal is higher than your brake , I suggest you change your clutch cable. At bottom of clutch pedal travel, close bleed nipple, then lift clutch pedal. No issues with gears either. Sometimes, though, I think it’s just luck of the draw with how the installation of the most recent clutch went. Or could it be something else? When you press the clutch down the plates separate the engine from the wheels allowing you to switch gears. 1 full revolution for me was enough to raise the biting point from the floor to roughly 1/3 - 1/2 way up the pedal travel. When the clutch pedal’s down, the engine isn't driving the wheels. Does anyone have any suggestions? Don’t think bite point position relates to how borked the clutch is. The car is a GP 1.4 8v active sport. Active 13 days ago. My clutch bite point is just off the floor. 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